Saturday, May 31, 2008

A memorable Memorial Day weekend - pregnant and hiking


Gutentag and welcome to another episode of “Crazy European Road Trip.” In this intense episode, Justin once again plans a weekend journey that no sane being would dare endeavor, yet somehow manages to convince two retirees, a pregnant woman, and a dog to spend four days in a Ford Ka – all because of one word: Dolomites. (Except for Pecos, who required the word “Outside?!”).
The Dolomites are magically delicious Italian Alps that seem to coolly say, “Ciao. I friggin’ rule, capiche? Come walk all over my majestic paths. They’re friggin bee-utiful.” And anyone who’s seen pictures will agree.

But, because these mountains are about seven hours away by car, we had to get there first. Here’s the trip:

Berchtesgaden: Our first stop was a town incredibly hard to say for those who don’t speak German. Here, in the southeast corner of Germany, we had lunch, took a boat ride on the glacial Königssee, and walked around a puny peninsula that humans love for the views and dogs love for the sticks.
Salzburg: We ate dinner and spent the night in this captivating city, seeing such sights as Mozart’s birthplace, the imposing castle, and tourists taking pictures of locations where the “Sound of Music” was shot.
Saltmine: OK, this shot is silly. There are many salt mines in the area (hence: Salzburg – Salt castle/village) and most of them had slides like this for miners to quickly get down to the lowest levels. As you can see, we aren’t your typical saltminers. Bill and Kate can probably pass for “enjoying” the ride, but Barbara and I look like we either hated it or just simply lost facial control. Either way, I wouldn’t have been surprised if we would have been told to never come back.
St. Peter: Finally, Italia. But … they all speak German. Weird. I found a pension on a Slovakian website that seemed to imply that this place was in the Dolomites. And, damnit, if it weren’t for that cloud there, we would have been.
Dolomites: Finally, the Dolomites. I’d chosen a random “rifugio” way up in the mountains to stop at so Barbara and Bill could have a coffee and hang out and Kate, Pecos, and I could hike happily into the distance like an Alpine ending to a Western movie. But, because it wasn’t yet June 1, the cable car going up hadn’t opened yet – meaning that B&B would have to settle for coffee a few thousand feet lower in elevation. For the rest of us, it was 1.5 hours of Dolomite magic … uh … which turned out to be cloudy skies and snowy trails that weren’t well marked and which left us with sopping wet shoes and socks (except for Pecos, whose shoes and socks dried quickly). We then drove around some more and realized that the roads were better marked and offered better views than the trails. Lesson learned, Italy. Lesson learned.
Ulm: God, the drive here was absolutely gorgeous. Northern Italy and the panhandle of Austria are certainly on par with central Switzerland for having some of the most picturesque mountainview towns I’ve ever seen. Ulm, however, was not one of them. We stopped here because our previously planned route (to Zürich) had almost no highways and could have taken anywhere from five to twelve hours, given traffic, hills, Lichtenstein, etc. So, since Ulm was on the way home, Ulm it was. And it was nice. Nothing overtly spectacular there – but certainly a memorable little spot with – allegedly – the tallest chapel in the world.
Rothenburg: The final stop on our enormous excursion was a tantalizing tourist town in south central Germany we’ve been to many times before. Although this Frankish town is definitely one of the most appealing in Europe, it somehow loses its Je Ne Sais Quoi (in German, that’s “ich weiss nicht was,” pronounced ISH VICE NISHT VOS, which is not quite as sexy). But we ambled the alleys and ogled the architecture until we couldn’t take the cuteness anymore. Then, after 1,076 miles of highways, tolls, and squished knees, we were home – fatigued but contented in having seen a few more magical parts of this continent we’re temporarily calling home.

P.S. No pregnant women were harmed in the making of this journey.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

The Low Countries at High Speed with Pecos

I’m guess I’m not ALWAYS right.

When I planned the short Fri-Sun jaunt to the Low Countries last weekend, I thought that we’d better take it easy. After all, along with Pecos and I (two able-bodied souls, if I say so myself) were a pregnant woman (Kate) and two retirees (Barbara and Bill). So, instead of seeing the seven sights I’d wanted to hit if it were just the pre-pregnant Kate and myself, I decided to slash our trip to only the top three sights: Bruges, Keukenhof, and a small Dutch farm. That oughta be enough, I thought.
I was wrong.
Our vivacious group ended up seeing six of the seven sights – and spending a fair amount of time seeing them, too. Well, OK. It was mostly Barbara and Bill taking pictures and Kate looking at maps.
Anyway, here they are (mostly of Pecos, of course), along with some brief thoughts:

BELGIUM
Ghent/Gent: Surprisingly attractive, complete with castle, gothic churches, canals, and hauntingly old and scary brick buildings that reminded me of a Tim Burton movie.
Bruges/Brugge: It’s hard to avoid the charm. Actually, I saw a few punk kids who were trying to look all hard. But I gotta say, it’s tough to look hard when you’re standing in front of gilded, pastel buildings, or baroque churches with well manicured churchyards surrounded by quaint, clean canals. Plus, you’d have to speak Dutch…totally un-ghetto. Anyway, here's Pecos blowing a bubble. NETHERLANDS
Kinderdijk: We missed by seven days the weekend when all the windmills in this UNESCO World Heritage Site were open to the public. Drats. We also missed the nice weather by an equal amount. But, as you can see, we still managed to enjoy our time there. Especially Pecos.
Keukenhof: The rain didn’t dampen our enjoyment of this perennially gorgeous flower garden. In fact, we actually stayed over three hours gazing at the blooms – and it wasn’t even tulip season. But, it was the last day this park was open (and the first time there for B&B), so we enjoyed it while we could. Here's Pecos, blowing some sort of bubble again. And here are a few more of Keukenhof, including a video of Pecos being very brave!
Delft: It was cold, wet, and dinner time. Although the city had canals, abbeys, and a large pedestrian square overlooked by two imposing churches, we were more taken with our traditional Dutch dessert of poffertjes. Here's a snap in front of one of the two main churches.

Alem: Speaking of traditional and Dutch, this small town in the southern part of Netherlands doesn’t see many tourists – so it’s as traditional as they get. Plus, we managed to see a traditional (read: loud) Dutch band perform while a raucous potato raffle was going on (Theme: “Everybody needs potatoes”). The only weird/bad part about this place was our hostel, which somehow was having a Groundhog Day moment and stuck in 1972. Below that is Pecos by the dyke.

Friday, May 16, 2008

An placed called "Moron"

We have a good life. Last week work sent me to an air base in southern Spain (called Morón), located 40 miles from Seville, which according to the New York Times, is "A place where flamenco dancers, gypsy street performers and Andalusian cowboys in wide-brimmed boleros still strut in 2,000-year-old plazas shaded by orange trees and palms."

Kate didn't come, unfortunately, because she had a lot of work to do. But I made the most of my time there, partly working and partly marveling at the orange trees, shady palms, and tapas bodegas.
Here's a Photoshop document I'm particularly proud of, showing how our one employee on Morón, Pete Corona, literally wears two hats....working for the Army AND the Navy.
And today we're heading north, for a weekend near the North Sea enjoying the flowers and canals of the lowlands. Tell you about it later.

Friday, May 02, 2008

Southern France: A croissant wrapped in a crepe inside a hunk of fromage

When I mentioned to Kate that I was going to write a blog this morning about our trip earlier this week to Southern France, the first thing she said was, "You damn near killed me on that trip."

Well, I have to admit, it was ambitious. We set out to see 21 cities in four days - and we saw 19.5 (the 0.5 was Nice, where we never made it downtown). The hardest part was, in all of them, you could have spent a weekend and still not feel satisfied that you really got a feel for them. I mean, it's the French Riveria....where almost every episode of "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous" was filmed. And the weather was perfect every day.

But, instead of boring you all with an essay of insights about why I chose these places or how our hotel was or what kinds of things we did there, I'm just going to show one picture from each place, create a slogan for the town, and share the first word or phrase that comes to my mind and Kate's mind about them. That way, you can get a feel for what we saw/did/ate/felt and can ask questions if you'd like. So, here they are, in the order which we saw them:
Montpellier: It's a tourist spot, we swear
Justin: Overhyped
Kate: Sleepy
Nimes: Where everything is old
Justin: "Roman"tic (both that it was Roman and charming)
Kate: Nice market

Pont du Gard: It's a freaking acquaduct, people
Justin: I wish that was us in the canoe
Kate: I wish we had sandwiches

Avignon: Popes used to live here
Justin: Historic or Grand, I'm not sure which
Kate: Cute ducklings

Gordes: Located somewhere in France
Justin: Nestled
Kate: Beautiful (and Justin tried to get me hit by a car)
Arles: What happens in Arles stays in Arles (because nobody cares)
Justin: Which city was that again?
Kate: I had a tasty omelet
Justin: Yes, she did

Aix en Provence: Welcome to America
Justin: Touristy
Kate: Cute, but lots of American students

Marseille: The Miami of France
Justin: Dirty
Kate: I did not like it
Gassin: Close to St. Tropez
Justin: Rainy, bad ice cream, good views, done in five minutes, Kate peed in the woods
Kate: It was really small

St. Tropez: Beyonce waz here
Justin: I like Annapolis better
Kate: Ritzy
Mougins: Where artists come to die
Justin: I got confused
Kate: Just waking up
Cannes: Rhymes with flan
Justin: I'd go back in a second
Kate: More going on than I expected
Antibes: If only we didn't speak French
Justin: My favorite town on the trip
Kate: Packed with charm
Villefranche sur Mer: Heaven for rich people
Justin: Hard to find
Kate: I was really tired

Monte Carlo: We're just kidding about the jacket and tie thing
Justin: Bleh
Kate: A bit of a letdown

Menton: Sounds like a breathmint
Justin: McFlurries rock
Kate: Justin doesn't know how to share McFlurries

Eze: Where a single bottle of wine actually costs 1,590 euros ($2559)
Justin: Too much cheese in Eze
Kate: I really liked the cactus garden

St. Paul de Vence: Not enough crepe shops
Justin: Stunning views...of tourists
Kate: Much more touristy than I was expecting
Ste. Maries de la Mer: We have horses
Justin: Reminded me of Chincoteague
Kate: Bouilabaise in yo' face!